First appeared in the Wall Street Journal
Pnina Peled, executive chef at Memorial Sloan-Kettering
Cancer Center, recently faced an unusual culinary challenge: A teenage cancer
patient wanted pizza, but chemotherapy treatments had dulled the girl's taste
buds and she could only taste lemon.
"This kid liked Italian food, and we couldn't think of
a lemon-flavored pizza because we kept thinking of tomato sauce," says Ms.
Peled. After some trial and error, the chef created a pizza with a lemon
Alfredo sauce for the young patient. "We made it for her three or four
times in a month because she kept requesting it," Ms. Peled says.
Getting patients in a cancer hospital to eat is a challenge.
"They can't swallow or they can't taste it or they're nauseous," Ms.
Peled says. "The adults force themselves, because they know they need the
nutrition. But the children don't understand why food doesn't taste like it
used to, or why they can't taste anything."
Most hospitals have been updating their food offerings to
include more vegetarian and healthier fare. But some major institutions are
going further, hiring trained chefs to revamp menu selections and expanding
kitchen hours to cater to a variety of medical needs. Diabetic, gastric-bypass,
cardiac, cancer and other types of patients all have different cravings and
nutritional requirements, these hospitals say.
Chefs are experimenting with Nutella milkshakes, made from
the sweet hazelnut spread, for patients needing extra calories. Cancer patients
may dine on chicken with a side dish of Flamin' Hot Cheetos to tingle
chemo-numbed tongues.
Rex Healthcare in Raleigh, N.C., maintains a small herb
garden outside the cafeteria where patients can watch the chefs cut mint and
tarragon for the day's dishes. Jim McGrody, Rex's director of culinary and food
services, says each disease has its own issues: Cancer patients can't have
fresh herbs and raw vegetables because of bacterial concerns, renal patients
have to watch potassium (so, no bananas) and cardiac patients eat a low-fat
diet.
"Gastric bypass patients are really a challenge because
they have to eat very low-fat, low-sugar diets with high protein," says
Mr. McGrody, a Culinary Institute of America graduate. "This summer I
tried an outdoor menu, with some cedar-plank-grilled salmon. You have to show
them that they can get flavor without the fat using citrus juices or roasted
garlic."
It takes more work to provide specialized meals. And some
healthier ingredients, like fish, can be more expensive. But hospital officials
say the cost, which is incorporated into the daily room charge, works out about
the same as traditional hospital fare.
"Although we reinvented the menu, the trade off is that
we saw a significant reduction in food waste," says Veronica McLymont,
director of food and nutrition services at Memorial Sloan-Kettering, in New
York. "Patients now order what they want to eat, when they are ready to
eat," she says.
Extra care in preparing meals also can give a boost to a
hospital's reputation. A 2009 study published in the journal Nutrition &
Dietetics found that the more personalized the food service, the more satisfied
the patients.
Patients say it makes a difference. Carl William Cousins, 54
years old, had a triple bypass at Rex Hospital last summer. During his six-day
stay, he remembers the grilled chicken and turkey sandwiches and well-spiced
vegetables.
"Most of the time when you think heart healthy, you
just think bland," says Mr. Cousins, a retiree in Raleigh. "I really
looked forward to getting something to eat."
Rex Healthcare has two recipes for grilled chicken.
"One is marinated in oil with onions, pickles, herbs and spices," Mr.
McGrody says. The other, for the heart-healthy menu, "has no oil but is
more of a rub of fresh herbs and spices," he says.
At MD Anderson Cancer Center, patients can have Froot Loops
cereal and Louisiana Hot Sauce if that is what will get them to eat, says Carol
Frankmann, director of clinical nutrition for the Houston hospital. The
hospital got so many requests for Flamin' Hot Cheetos that the chefs added the
selection to the menu, she says. Cancer patients' "taste can be blunted so
they need something strong—sweet, spicy or acidic—just so they can taste
it," she says.
Some hospitals have begun cooking to order for patients,
similar to a restaurant, instead of requiring them to submit food requests the
night before. Orders can be placed any time during the day, until 9 p.m. at MD
Anderson, and even later at some hospitals. Memorial Sloan-Kettering blends
custom-made smoothies for its patients; MD Anderson offers made-to-order pasta
dishes. Some hospitals say they have added kitchen workers to deal with the
changes, while others readjusted staff schedules.
"There's been a major shift in philosophy, not just
about feeding patients but for the whole hospital," says Kathy McManus,
director of nutrition at Brigham and Women's Hospital in Boston, which has 800
beds. The hospital recently began a pilot study with eight other medical
centers, including Johns Hopkins in Baltimore and Ohio State University, to
evaluate how to improve nutrition and what cancer patients think about food.
Memorial Sloan-Kettering, which serves about 900 meals a
day, revamped its kitchen to offer more personalized patient service about two
years ago. Ms. Peled, the executive chef, says that if a patient is having a
particular dietary challenge, she will personally visit and see if there is
something the kitchen can do. For patients who have trouble swallowing, she
developed egg-based custards, like a French toast custard with blended
croissants, topped with crème anglaise and cinnamon and nutmeg, served in a
ramekin.
"All the kids have my card, and they email me
constantly," says Ms. Peled. "Here's one I got today from a
13-year-old: 'I wanted to know if you could stop by my room to talk about what
I can eat and what you can make me. I miss talking to you in person and I hope
you get back to me. Your food friend, Courtney.' "